NEW PHOTOS: Before I begin, please notice that we have finally added some photos to the "recent photo albums" in the left column.

It was fantastic to be back up north. ..not just basking in the mountain landscape (cooler temps, fresh air, oh and big peaks), but more importantly, to be back immersed in a community and realize we truly made some great relationships in the Kullu Valley. Travelling on the tourist track the last month or so, we were uplifted to come back to genuine friends. Their hospitality, and direct spoiling of Momma K, was quite rewarding to Em and I. The spoiling began in Delhi when Khem took us all out to a 5-star restaurant at the La Meridian hotel. Then upon arriving in Manali, we got the special treatment from Peter and his family in the Om Tara Guest House. In addition to good food and fresh mango shakes, their friendliness and pride in making us feel comfortable was greatly appreciated.

After our 4-day tour through Spitti Valley, we returned to our winter home, The Iceland Hotel, in Solang. It was great to see the crew and Ludar welcomed us demanding that my mother stay in the suite (upon Khem's orders). Unfortunately, Khem was out leading a trekking group so we missed seeing him. The suite was quite different from the sleeping situations my mom had adapted to the last couple weeks. The three of us were normally sharing one room which usually consisted of a couple twin beds pushed together. So, it was either the three of us on one double bed or (if the room had enough floor space) we requested another twin mattress. The suite at The Iceland Hotel consists of two rooms each wtih a double bed. In addition to this comfort, the suite boasts glass windows featuring a 270 degree view of mountain beauty. Unfortunately, my mom was only able to catch a couple quick glimpses of the nearby peaks as the weather was gray and damp for most of our two days in Solang. Upon checking out, Ludar informed us that our visit (rooms plus food and many teas) was complimentary. Then while waiting for our bus from Manali, Anand delivers a gift wrapped Kullu shawl to my mom. Em and I kind of stood there in disbelief (or jealousy) as my mom just met Anand earlier that day and only for a few minutes. It goes to show how valued one's mother is in India. Just before boarding the bus, Peter and his daughter Neha, blessed us with prayer scarves for our journey. Knowing I could get emotional, I rather focussed on the future knowing that we will see these wonderful people again.

Thanks to all our friends who contributed to the spoiling and making us feel so appreciated.

O.K., I guess we also experienced some amazing things last week.

Manali:
We did an "acclimitization" hike up Lambaduk with Peter. When it began to rain, we decided it was a good time to sit underneath a tree where Peter boiled noodles over an open fire for our lunch. Later that evening we rooted Peter on during a local carrom tournament. Carrom is an old board game where you try to sink your pieces into pockets by flicking a striker piece. It is kind of a combination of pool and marbles played on a square table and quite popular throughout India. Like most competetive games, it attracts a lot of crap talking and we were quite entertained watching the local Tibetans ridicule each other and then immediately miss an easy shot due to the tournament pressure. Skoog, Kophs, and Dylan, we may be making a board for the next Safari.

Spitti Valley:
WOW. I have been on some beautiful mountain landscape roadways before, but this one truly takes the cake. We left the Kullu Valley on a beautiful blue-skied morning and were able to boast some local ridgelines and peaks we had skied to my mother. I was aglow just to be back in the high country and the mountains seemed more impressive than both Em and I remembered. I joked with Peter that "it was so great to be back in the mountains as I think I experienced 'low elevation sickness' the last couple months." Peter has a great story about when he visited the coast and swears he had "low elevation sickness."

Driving over Rohtang Pass into Lahaul, we were officially leaving the "habitable world" of lush vegetation and entering the land of alpine. The landscape was full of waterfalls cascading down thousdands of feet of steep hillside, granite ridgelines, and huge glaciated mountain tops. We stopped for tea in Chhatru and then lunch in Batal. Each little dhaba (cafe) consisted of stone walls with indoor seating on stone benches and tables made of guess what, ya, stones. Quite a rocky place. Sure enough, Peter knew the owners of both as they spend their winters in Manali.

We then continued on the windy gravel road and ascended to Kunzum La, the pass that seperates the Lahaul and Spitti Valleys. Feeling a little spacey just sitting in the jeep as we ascended, I was eyeing my altimeter as we were approaching the highest elevation in the continental US. We reached Kunzum La at just under 15,000 feet and I informed my mom we were standing higher than the summit of Mt. Rainier or any point in the lower 48 (and we drove to it)! Kunzum La is blessed with a fantastic stupa (Buddhist monument) and many rows of prayer flags.

From this high pass, we descended into Spitti Valley where the landscape changed to huge valleys predominantly made up of glacial till. It was a crazy contrast to see glaciated granite peaks just behind wind eroded ridgelines of glacial till. It was as though we were driving in southwest Utah with Switzerland just beyond the front range.

The next few days included old, high monastery after old, high monastery, walks to high alpine lakes, and visiting Peter's friends for tea. The Spitti Valley was once part of Tibet and the language and culture are very similar. The region was along the old silk route that travelled from the Mid-East into China and was habitable to only the nomadic type. Still isolated for about eight months a year due to snowed-in mountain passes, the people calling Spitti Valley home today are considered nomadic by contemporary standards.

On our drive back, we did a side trip to Chandra Tal, a beautiful lake at 13,500 feet in Lahaul. We drank tea from some shepards who take their flocks of sheep hundreds of kilometers to this area as the local grass seed is superior. On our way down from the lake, and in the middle of nowhere, we had a great surprise. Bouncing towards us on a motorbike with his sunglasses bouncing off his chin and his long wavy hair rigid from dust, came our friend Chala. Chala is the social badboy from the group of local snowboarders we hung out with last winter. Shortly after came Peter, another snowrider from Burruwa village. It was great to see them again and especially in such a remote location.

Solang:
After a heinous descent through thick fog, we were dropped off at the Iceland Hotel in Solang. Following some happy "Namastes" and "Op kaisse hais" to the Iceland crew, we resorted to our winter norm of warm showers and hot tea. Staying consistent with the winter luxuries of the Iceland, we played some Citizen Cope and Bob Marley (thanks Robo) on their stereo and logged online while we were the only ones in the dining/community room. Some cards and a movie (thanks HBO) followed. While the weather never got nice, it was dry enough for me to show my mom around. First we walked up to the ski hill where all the winter craziness happens (beginner rope tow, yaks, tubing runs, tea stalls, fur coated newlyweds in sleighs, first time skiers in the tuck position even though they are on the flats and not moving). Then we headed down a streamside trail towards the village of Burruwa. With the rain beginning, we headed back to the warm comforts of the Iceland.

We are now in Delhi, Momma K flew home last night after a most wonderful visit, and we are flying to Thailand tomorrow morning!

Dhanyavad India, & Namaste.

Labels: India